Under Crescent Moon

Mr. Lovelace and I made our way South along the Australia 1. After spending two days in Byron shaping his face off and commiserating with the most esteemed of board builders Ryan was dog tired. I hopped behind the wheel of our trusty Tarzan van with a new respect for the physical demands of shaping and a impending sense of sadness that the trip was coming to an end. With about six hours of driving ahead of us there was limitless time to converse and endless topics on which to do so. Despite two long weeks on the road I still felt the giddy excitement experienced prior to arriving. Plans for the future, reflections on those we'd met and the recounting of mischief made all sparked that warm humming energy that had been fueling our adventures. We drifted between excited chatter and sleep and zombie drive mode (not all at once thankfully) for a few more hours. Random spots were checked, u turns were made, and it was looking like our options for a quick surf were growing slim.
Feeling the negative effects of the road, we pulled off the main highway and made our final leg to a spot halfway between Sydney and Byron. Having crashed there at the beginning of the trip we new it would be free/tolerated for us sleep in our van. We pulled up around 6 o clock to perfect glassy point break surf all too reminiscent of or Santa Barbara favorites. Crowded? Hardly, a few unsuccessful potato chip riders and three middle-agers up top. We couldn't get out there fast enough, not a picture was taken! The water was warm and the air was still, long roping waves peeled down a rocky point turning every cobble and sandbar into steep or bowling sections. The guys up top were friendly enough, telling of how great the place was 20 years ago and how empty and perfect Noosa used to be. Pretty standard response to "what a beautiful spot , eh?" Then everyone got out of the water. It was about 7 pm and still light out, but everyone bailed to start cooking dinner or mind the kids or wife or some silly thing and we scored.
Ryan and I surfed till well past dark, under a crescent moon. Hooting and hollering like little kids we traded off improving waves under a bright Australian night sky. I thought about sharks, jellies, and I couldn't be bothered. If I had been devoured in that moment it would have been a happy one. After battling crowds and poor conditions the whole trip our dream of an empty session in good point break surf came true.
We didnt leave the bluff overlooking the wave, it felt right to sleep next to the waves. On a full belly of parking-lot-pasta it was one of the better sleeps of the trip. In the morning it looked like this.






Lovelace


Lovelace