Surf Positive

A rare moment of quality goes by unridden on a stretch of beach known for it's ability to reward and punish.

Moments after this shot I was contorting myself into a 5/4/3 as fast as humanly possible. After a day of work in the confines of 595 Market and watching tiny images of pumping North Pacific swell on my phone, all I saw was possibility. A quick drop into the pocket to speed run down the line, shit that section is totally makeable. Look at the inside sandbar! Barrels!

I' tried to maintain my optimistic outlook despite the thorough ass kicking I proceeded to get from the sea. One foot wind swell criscrossed the incoming waves as they leaned forward, heaved up and dropped out over shallow sand bars. Pitching to say the least. The draining tide seemed to pull constantly into the washing machine of the northern cove. It was very apparent that this was not a place to be toyed with. After a few humblings by unreadable sand slabs and constantly battling a current pulling me out to sea I felt like the ocean was sending me a message. I could be wrong, but it really felt something like, "piss off mate." I decided to oblige and be thankful to set foot on the sand.

I did get some really perfect duck dives though....