Who Would Have Thought

I learned to surf here and in the past 10 years I've made it a point to visit as often as allows. It's a fickle bastard of a wave and never in a million year did I think I would stumble upon it looking like this. I've surfed better waves sure, but not here where I tested the boundaries of hypothermia every Saturday. Where sea witches taught me the pecking order. Where gray whale calves played tag in the line up. Where half eaten seal corpses washed ashore. Where soft bellied soft top riders litter the beach like so much flotsam and jetsam. Where I lured countless friends into the icy waters under the premise of "fun outdoor activities." It's where I came to be alone when things needed figuring out. It's where I came with my closest friends. Ill keep coming back, on the biggest of days, but if I never see waves like this here again I'll still be lucky.