Option A. Not a bad option here, as far as longevity the waves were lacking to say the least. If you could generate enough speed for any maneuver you went for it. Unknown optimist opting to exit via a decent lil punt.
Ever been to Santa Cruz? This West swell has.
Option B. Slide a sick floater across the barrel section over about two feet of water. Another unknown optimist convincing me to put the stupid camera down and get out there.
Inevitably, a brewing West swell will be over hyped. I've been known to become illogically excited over the possibility of perfection. Any surfer who puts in the time up there knows this kind of brash unchecked optimism can only lead to a swift kick in the nuts from a harsh reality. The reality that a pesky wind swell is mucking up the clean long period groundswell. The reality that a normally windless zone is criss crossed by breezes from every direction but offshore. The reality of a 6 foot high tide and the currents that come with a drop to negative in only 7 hours. Reality bites, these shots are a bit of fantasy. Hopefully they make things look better than they were. Until reality puts on it's steel toes again, dream on.
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